DIY SPEAKER ENCLOSURE DESIGN DRIVER
In hind sight the mid enclosure should have been larger, and the enclosure volume for the bass driver should have also been larger to provide better extension. It doesn't sound as good as I would have liked, but you only learn from experience. Would I have done things differently if I had my time again? Sure a few. The 12.5.1 is my first DIY speaker active or passive, and the cabinet finish is excellent especially considering my minimal speaker building knowledge, wood-working skills and the overall monetary investment made. I must say I am actually quite proud of myself looking at the completed speaker. All work was completed by myself on the weekends between my normal 9 to 5'er. Of this time 6 months was dedicated to design and procrastination, while the actual physical build process only took 3 months. The 12.5.1 3 way active speaker build took about 9 months to complete.
As expected the plot is essentially identical to the 75 litre plot completed during the cabinet design phase. based on the above 76 litre net enclosure volume calculation. Just for consistency I have remodeled the SB acoustic 12inch. (106.7 - 30.794) = circa 75.9 litres, with extras I anticipate total usable volume will be 75 litres exactly. So to calculate a final working volume, I now need to take overall cabinet volume and subtract all calculated/known reductions. Type 4 1 x Woofer 18mm fixing brace behind cutout .1 litre Slot Port (54x344x325mm).6 litres (outside dimensions) You will note, I did not measure the tweeter displacement, because its net displaced volume is negligible. OK, so now that I have the displacement figures for both the mid and woofer, I can reconcile the volume of the main cabinet. Screw the speakers into the new enclosure and you are ready to hook it up and try it out.The displacement calculator in this instance, spits out 2.47 litres displacement.It is recommended to wait about 12 hours. Wait for the glue and sealant to dry completely before going any further.This can be attached using a spray adhesive. Once you have an open-end (whatever shape you chose) place a bead of silicone all along the inside edges of the box, tube, triangle to insure a sealed environment.
DIY SPEAKER ENCLOSURE DESIGN INSTALL
Do not install the part with the holes for the speakers yet.Run a bead of carpenter’s glue along one edge.Once everything is cut, do a mock-up of the box before you build it to make sure everything has a nice tight fit.īelow are the steps necessary to build the subwoofer enclosure: Step 4 - BuildĬut all of the pieces to the correct sizes for the interior volume you have chosen. A solid 5/8-inch thick piece will work for smaller volume applications of up to 2 cubic feet for larger applications, go with a ¾-inch thickness. However, plywood is a good option if for some reason you cannot get fiberboard. Fiberboard will minimize panel vibrations due to its density, which really makes it the better choice. There are only two types of materials you should be using: fiberboard and plywood. Note: 1,728 cubic inches= 1 cubic foot Step 3 - Choose your Material
Once you have the area, you can find the volume: People who built enclosures by following some speaker plans, but want to understand the design process. DIY-ers who want to build their own speaker enclosure. Below are the equations for the most popular shapes to help to calculate the internal volume needed. Audiophiles who want to learn more about sound and speaker systems. You can then get the best sound and also to be sure that you have the correct internal volume for your speaker. The next step is to decide what shape to use and determine the internal volume of that shape. Below please find the speaker/driver size to enclosure volumes for your equipment. Therefore, the box will need to be 2.5-3.5 cubic feet. For instance, a 12-inch subwoofer typically needs 2-3 cubic feet of interior space, but you may need to add a bit of extra space to ensure an easy, but snug, fit. The space you want to put the box in will greatly narrow down the choices. When designing a subwoofer enclosure, the first thing you need to do is measure the space you will be placing the box. This article will go through the steps to create a sealed subwoofer enclosure. The sealed box is the most popular choice due to excellent dampening, power handling, and ease of design. When these waves are not separated they tend to cancel each other out. These boxes separate the sound waves in the front from in the back. Sealed subwoofer enclosures are simply an air-tight enclosure built to improve and enhance the speaker’s performance. However, these systems are also much more complex to build than the sealed enclosures. These boxes channel the sound waves from the speaker from both the front and rear and help with making better sound by providing a lower bass reproduction and a low distortion level. The vented enclosure-or ported enclosure-is a more efficient choice.